Shochu Gumi n.026: White Koji (March 2026)

Last year, I explored koji a bunch for both Shochu and Sake Gumi and I’m diving right back in for this first quarter of 2026. Koji is Japan’s national mold and its chief duty is to create enzymes that break starches into sugars, allowing for alcohol fermentation. It also creates glutamic acid AKA umami!

Let’s focus on white koji this time around, aspergillus kawachii. Named after scientist Genichiro Kawachi who discovered white koji in 1918 in Kagoshima, white koji is a mutation of black koji, with the ability to create a moromi (fermentation mash) with potent citric acid (to ward off bacteria), without the invasive, heavy cleanup that black koji requires. Further, shochu makers use white koji to express light, crisp, often sweeter flavor profiles in comparison to shochus using robust black koji. Today, white koji remains popular and is also being experimented with in sake production, where yellow koji is most commonly used.

Both bottles this quarter are made with white koji. Brooklyn Kura’s Kura Shochu, just released last year, is made with white koji – a departure from other kasutori shochus we’ve seen where only yellow is used. Kura Shochu Brand Ambassador Kyle Davis says, “For our moromi, we make a fresh batch of white koji rice, and then add it to sake kasu (made with yellow koji) and do a co-ferment. So our shochu is actually white and yellow koji, the latter of which goes through two full fermentations.” The moromi is then turned to shochu at King County Distillery!

New to the American market, Ranbiki Barrel Aged 3 Year Barley shochu hails from Ebisu Distillery in Fukuoka – they say white koji is central to their identity and they only produce shochus that have been aged for over three years. Fifth generation toji and blender Kentaro Tanaka of Ebisu says, “There are several types of white koji. With the development of White Koji L-Type, which is particularly well suited for long-term aging, we adopted this strain as its primary koji.” We welcome Ebisu Distillery to the States!

 Kanpai,

Kayoko

Kura Kasutori Shochu 
Brooklyn Kura (Brooklyn, New York)
Distilled from sake lees / ABV 40% / Koji: White + Yellow
Distillation: Atmospheric / No aging

Single distilled, Kura Shochu follows a 20-day secondary fermentation with white koji. Followed by chill-filtering the liquor, the shochu has a smooth, balanced, subtly umami profile, says Kyle. When asked about the koji, Kyle answered, “Yellow koji gives more characteristic sake ginjo-ka – melony, herbaceous notes, while the white koji unlocks even more flavor from the rice - bringing out chestnut, floral, and cereal grain aromas. I think flavor-wise, we wanted something that stood out from other kasutori shochu, and carried distinct notes of kome shochu as well.”

Tasting notes: mushrooms, custard, taffy, key lime, senbei - it smells like a Yamahai sake!
Food Pairing: Roasted whole fish, coconut curry, yakitori
Service Style: rocks, oyuwari, highball
Cocktail: Koji Negroni 1.25oz Kura Kasutori Shochu / 1oz Campari / 0.75oz sweet vermouth / Drop of soy sauce Build in rocks glass, fill with ice. Stir until chilled, garnish with orange peel

Ranbiki Barrel Aged 3 Year Barley Shochu 
Ebisu Distillery (Asakura, Fukuoka)
Distilled from Kyushu Nijo barley + locally sourced Japonica rice / ABV 25% / Koji: White
Distillation: Atmospheric + Vacuum / Aged for 3 years in French and American Oak

Mr. Tanaka lived in Tennessee for a year where he became enamoured by bourbon, and from there took over the shochu distillery from his family. He tells us, “Initially, the use of white koji was limited. However, from the late 1940s onward, its advantages became widely recognized for its ease in handling, stable and reliable fermentation, and a cleaner, smoother flavor profile. By the 1970s and 1980s, it had become the standard koji used by the vast majority of shochu producers.” Further, he says, “We continue to use White Koji L-Type for the base spirit of Ranbiki, as it allows us to achieve stability during long maturation and a refined, transparent, and elegant flavor profile.”

The word Ranbiki is the Japanese pronunciation of the Portugese word for alembic, a type of pot still that is usually made of copper. Golden in hue, the shochu is delightfully elegant and balanced. Find our interview with Mr. Tanaka on our blog!

Tasting notes: Banana bread, sweet red bean, ripe pear
Food Pairing: Gyoza, Chinese chicken salad, Shepard’s Pie
Service Style: Rocks, soda, oyuwari